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| | Front Driver's Side
Through EBAY I managed to pick up a boot
section repair piece and a front passenger repair piece. Working in this area
was relatively straight forward but the repair pieces I used were not very
accurate and I had a lot of fit up difficulties. With hindsight I would have preferred
to do it from sheet metal, as I did the front. For some reason this car had more
rust on the drivers side than the passenger side which is the opposite to what I
would have expected. Again the area around the bottom of the screen pillar was
completely gone and so I had no detail of the way it connected with the door
post. I knew that the cut out in the coupe door was to accommodate this part of
the support and after about 5 goes got it work and be able to close the door. I
still don't know it its correct of not so any help gratefully received. At this
stage that drivers side looked quite good and I took the screen out at last
deciding that all the roof pillars are sound enough to support it.
By the way, be prepared to be able to put on and take off the doors at least
10 times. I wanted to see how the wings and doors looked to remind me what it
was I was renovating (see photos) The wings are not yet repaired.
Dashboard
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OK, This is where I will upset some MGA owners. I go along
with the theory that if you have a car relying on a dynamo rather than an
alternator then you need to be sure that it is charging efficiently and
this is why I have altered the dashboard layout slightly. I know that the
ignition light should be a good enough indicator that it is working but to
me it is not enough and I want to know how much I am getting out and how
much I am using depending what I have switched on. |
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For the past year I have been making extensive use of EBAY
to source items and it was here that I picked up a very nice 30-0-30 ammeter,
the same size as the other small gauges and more importantly the same style of
lettering. The only draw back it is by Smiths. I don't believe that Jaeger made
an ammeter of this style. But Jaeger and Smiths became/where the same company so
to me, no problem. Another problem you will encounter in a rebuild is the washer
pump. The MGA had it as an option but law now makes you have one. Mine had long
gone and every time one came on EBAY it went for over £50. The new replacement
has a short stumpy pump. The original has a long metal rod and it sits in a cup
on the dash. This is so that the knob doesn't stick out farther than the other
knobs. I did not like the new style and hunted for an alternative. My advice is
to look around for any 60's car. Most have Tudor made long rod push pumps
fitted. I got mine from an old 60's Ford Anglia in perfect condition. Its owner
had changed to an electric pump. The dash cup is hard to find as is the right
knob with the correct lettering but in the UK just go to the Austin Healy spare
parts website where I got mine. He told me he as over a hundred in stock. Make
the effort because its worth it. I will post a picture for those who have never
seen the real thing. Back to the dash. I have fitted the ammeter where I think
it best fits rather than find any area by the extreme ends of the dash. To do
this I drilled hole just outside the old location of the turn indicator an cut
round the location. I then welded a plate in that area and used a hole cutter to
make a ammeter hole. I then cut another hole where I relocated the turn
indicator that I had cut out previously making sure that it was high enough to
get the knob to still fit on the dash. |
Next another option when new was to have a headlamp flasher operated by a
separate flick switch. These are available together with the correct relay from
Tim Hodgekiss in the UK. If you need details email me through the website. This
I fitted close to where I think they put it in the Factory. Any help with the
exact location will be appreciated. Also I wanted the safety of hazard lights.
Again Tim Hodgekiss has a Lucas kit that has everything you need fitted in one
unit that fits in with the period knobs. Again a picture will be posted. After
all the work the dash was cleaned up and the areas of welding lead loaded.
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As I write my instruments are away being restored/repaired
and recalibrated at Speedycables in Wales. They took over all of Smiths
old spares etc. The instruments in the picture are some old early MGB
style ones that had been stuck in car when I bought it. I will post a
picture when the instruments are back and I have recovered the dash. The
radio by the way is a 60's period working japanese made by Victor
Industries who became JGC)again obtained at a very reasonable price
through EBAY. |
The Next Phase
There is still a lot of work to do here, mainly related to
strengthening the roof pillars and the flanges that take the glass
rubbers. These have a habit of rusting completely away in the bottom
corner areas. Once this stiffening work is done I can safely get the body
off and finish off all the inner welding work in those areas that were inaccessible
before. Also it will let me complete all the cockpit welding in comfort
without getting sparks down my neck! Keep watching...
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The photos from this month can be found here.
  
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